Wallpaper Companies.

First, you need to know that the wallpaper manufacturing business has gone through a serious Merger Mania in the last half of the 1990's. Output capacity is about the same, and with technology -- can improve. However, the number of good sales Reps, customer service, even quality controls all took hits, affecting the retailer more than the public. Then there was the UPS strike in '98 that prompted shipping price increases.

Makeing wallpaper is not rocket science, but it is not so easy either. A typical plant has millions of dollars in capital equipment to print and assemble the wallcoverings, millions more in inventory of -- the steel cylinders engraved with the patterns, the paper and/or vinyl, inks, adhesives, packing and shipping materials, and of course the inventory of wallcoverings on hand. Plants need chemists, mechanical engineers, computer literate engravers, and quality control people who can make sure that the green leaf is the correct color and printed inside the lines of the leaf, etc.

The manufacturer will print enough in the first run to start a paper. Then save materials, (like engraved cylinders), and record production information in order to duplicate that paper in future runs if the paper sells. Customer choice drives this business. There is no sure-fire way to know what is going to be hot or cold, only educated guesses. Some papers sell so well they are carried over into new sample books as the old books are dropped.

The public demands new looks in wallcoverings, so designers are kept busy creating new papers. Then marketing people must choose which papers to include in sample books and hopefully get some papers into magazine layouts. The marketing people work with the company Reps to push as many sample books as possible on the retailers and other outlets, (like big design houses).

The sample book is as important to the wallpaper business as commercials are to broadcasting, essential. My personal guess is that there are between 1/2 to 1 million different papers available for purchase at any given time, and probably more that I am not aware of yet. (Note: a pattern may have four color choices, and I consider that to be four papers because color makes such a difference in the paper's effect in a room.) Samples are the only practical way for a customer to know how a paper will look on the wall. Sample books are a practical way to get so many samples into the hands of customers.

The life span of an average sample book should be three years. Some books have expiration dates, other books do not. A book may fade fast or go on and on and on, depending on sales! Now, try to follow this -- papers in a book can fade or continue no matter how the book it is from is doing. Generally, though, papers follow the life span of the books they are in.

A common sample book may cost the retailer $50 to $75, some less and some considerably more. Sometimes the books are available under different programs designed to ease the cost of having books in the stores. To protect the stores from losing sales to tele-marketers, (1-800 numbers that have no overhead), sample books often have scrambled codes on the individual papers. Some people would come into the store and ask if I would match the price of an 800 number. Not only would I refuse, but I knew many of these same people would be back when their order from the 800 number did not work out, (an understatement).

In an economizing move, fewer sample books are being produced, with each book having more samples. So for illustration, let us say that instead of two books with 100 samples each, you now have one book with 150 samples. Is the Gym closed? Shop for wallpaper. Pump that paper, feel the burn!

The Wallpaper Store.

It is now possible to buy wallpaper from 800 numbers, (a bad idea), and internet sites. Nether are practical. Some sites and numbers are backed by stores or the manufacturers themselves, but you still need to take a sample paper home to see how it will look on the wall! Someday, interactive sites will be able to ship samples to you in an affordable system, (look for my name as the author - hint, hint), but not today. Hands down, the best way to purchase wallpaper is through a local retailer.

Let me be clear. To me, a wallcovering retailer is anyone or company that holds a valid merchant's license in your State -- collects and pay sales tax where applicable. This can mean locally owned stores, big box stores, interior designers set up for retailing, and even 'shop at home' operations that bring the 'store' to you. Also, a wallcovering retailer can order new papers for you from the manufacturers. An outlet that only buys end-of-run papers taking up space at some warehouse is just a clearance place.

Wallpaper is almost always going to be a department in a store that also sells things like window treatments, paint, and the like. The more important wallpaper is to the store, the better service you are likely to receive.

The store will have a sample book library, and probably some in-stock wallpapers and borders. The in-stock papers would have been bought in case quantities for a price reduction for the store. There is still some waste to the store, because it must open up some rolls and bolts to put up for display, and let people take sample cuttings home. In-stock papers are going to be a good value. However, in-stock papers have one persistent problem. As the store orders more paper to replenish the shelves, or if you need more bolts than are in the store to finish the whole project, the run numbers may be different. That could mean the papers might look slightly different -- and sometimes not. So, please check the run numbers before you walk out the door with the paper.

A good library will contain between 500 and 2,000 sample books. With 500 books, a good buyer should have at least one paper for any given look their customers might want. At close to 1,500 books, a library should have special lines and designers, and many high end books. A 2,000 book library is a 'bring your own picnic basket, steam coming out the ears, marriage breaking, mind numbing, small children running rampant from boredom, another person is holding an interesting book until you finally get a closer look at it, interior designers dream-and-nightmare all in one' kind of library.

The larger libraries are not easy to maintain. There is a point of diminishing returns where the growth of the library will return less per dollar invested. Also, some, (try all), libraries have books in them that should have been pulled. The larger the library, the more room there is for error.

The books can be organized in different ways, by the look/style, by type of paper, by designer, by the pile on the table. The better organized libraries are maintained by more knowledgeable store clerks. They can help you find what you are looking for with less effort on your part.

To protect its investment, the store may ask you to leave a deposit or credit card number before allowing you to borrow a book. Each store will have a policy about how long to borrow a book. Three days to a week would be a normal turn around if a book you are looking for was not in the store . In any case, you should take wallpaper samples home to see how they will look on your walls! If a book is too important to leave the store, WHY doesn't the store have a duplicate book? Also, DO NOT, under any circumstances CUT samples pieces from the books, EVER. If you need a flat sample of a given paper, the store clerk can order you one, probably for a small charge -- or just shipping.

Let us say that you have the dimensions of your room or rooms you wish to paper, and the choices of papers and borders . The store clerk helps you estimate the areas in square feet. Next, the clerk checks the sample book for pattern repeat of each paper, and the recommended adjustment of amount for pattern, (in the book if there, or a store policy-formula).

At this stage, you and the clerk come to an agreement as to how much paper to actually order. The point is to order enough paper to do the job given the way paper is shipped and the expected waste in hanging the paper. BUT, not order so much extra paper that you have whole rolls left over that should be returned. Of course, it is far worse to come up short on paper than to pay a little more to return some. If you must re-order paper, you might get a different run number -- with the risk of the paper being slightly off in color.

Example A: you are a good paper hanger and the formula states that you need 20.1 single rolls of paper. Also, you know that you were generous with some area in your measure. You might risk ordering only 20 rolls instead of 22 rolls.

Example B: you are a newbe and the formula shows 15.2 rolls on a large repeat paper. You might order just the 16 rolls, but another double roll could save you a peck of trouble. Try ordering 18 rolls just to be safe. If you tear a sheet, had under measured, or the dog runs through some paper, you have extra paper to spare.

TIP: If you are near a whole case, ask to get the whole case at the same price as you would otherwise have ordered. The store can, and usually does, receive a case discount from the manufacture. So if your order would be 22 rolls, and a case in that paper is 24 rolls, ask for the same price on 24 rolls as you would have been charged on a 22 roll order. Even with the higher shipping fee, you can come out ahead.

RETURNS: Manufacturers do not like to take back paper after 30 days, because the run numbers might be different from what is in the warehouse bins. That is why there is a 30 day limit on returns in most cases. Defective papers are an exception. Usually State laws regarding defective merchandise apply.

The store will have to charge you for reverse shipping. You are also likely to pay a penalty for returned 'ordered' paper, (like 25% of price), to cover the restocking expenses. Example, if a double roll of paper costs' $30 plus $5 shipping, you might get back (75% of $30 =$22.50 - $5 shipping = $17.50) a total of $17.50. In my State, you lose a little more because of the sales tax situation.

OK. Now the store clerk writes up the order and takes your deposit. You leave the store and wait a week or so for a phone call saying the paper is in, depending on normal ship times for your area.

The clerk calls the warehouse, giving the store's Merchant I.D. number. This I.D. tells the warehouse --

• Who the store is
• That the store has a Valid account
  • -- that is, part of their system of sample books, etc.
  • -- not the public or a banned 1-800 number operation
  • -- with a line of credit that allows orders to be placed right away
• Where to ship the packages unless otherwise requested, like drop shipping out of state
• AND THE CODE CONVERSION FOR SAMPLE BOOKS AND/OR INDIVIDUAL PAPERS
  • -- Remember, the same book from two different stores can have different STYLE NUMBERS on the same papers
  • -- if the manufactures do not protect their customers, (the retailers who are part of the system), they SHOULD lose those customers!

The warehouse will tell the clerk if a problem exits:

• Back ordered papers are out of stock, but are in the process of a new run being printed. The warehouse will have a probable date for when the new run will be delivered to the warehouse. This is the B/O date the clerk will call you with right away to see if you need to order some other paper to complete your project on time.
• Mixed runs in the bins should not be accepted, but the clerk my call you to ask if you would prefer that to the B/O date.
• The paper you have chosen just might have been discontinued. The store clerk would not know this unless he/she called first, (a good idea with older books or expensive papers).

When you pick up the order from the store is the time to have paint custom tinted for the paper(s). Samples in the books are from the first run of the paper, and the environment of the book can change the look of a paper a bit. Also, have a checklist of supplies you might still need. This is the time to buy fresh paste or pre-paste activator. Please write down the pattern and run numbers for your records as the store may not keep records that detailed.

When you receive the order, it will be up to you or your paper hanger to check the rolls for defects and the like. If a defect does exist:

• STOP!
• Save everything to be returned to the store. If you have paper already dry and set on the wall, please leave it for a company sales rep to look it over. All loose paper can be left to dry and placed in suitable bags for the return, even partial rolls.
• Call the store as soon as possible. Follow their instructions.
• If you still want that paper, have the store re-order in a new run number only!

The Types of Wallpaper and Wallcoverings.

• Stamped in a low relief embossed style for a mild 3-D effect.
  -- Can be used to hide imperfections on walls.
  -- Please use a soft smoothing brush with long bristles or cloth pad.
  -- Some are meant to be painted. To stay clean, "paintables" will need to be painted or clear coated. I recommend painting AFTER applied to the wall as paint film will likely flake or crack if flexed on loose paper while hanging the paper.
  -- See Embossed, See also Paintables.

• -- Borders are made in any of the styles and ways of wallpapers, but are meant to be applied horizontally.
  -- Borders are used as decorative trim, alone or with the coordinated paper.
  -- Can be used at chair rail height, (about three feet), to separate two styles of paper, paint, paneling, or any combination of same.

• --- Embossed papers are distinguished by a severely raised pattern, (for a 3-D effect).
  --- Can be used to hide imperfections on walls.
  --- Please use soft smoothing brush with long bristles or cloth pad.
  --- Some are meant to be painted. To stay clean, "paintables" will need to be painted or clear coated. I recommend painting AFTER applied to the wall as paint film will likely flake or crack if flexed on loose paper while hanging the paper.
  --- See Anaglyptic, See also Paintables.

• --- Most any fabric can be a wallcovering with the use of a clear, non staining cellulose paste, (often labeled "Heavy Duty Clear" or some such thing from different manufactures).
  --- The fabric must not be sensitive to the paste or the environment of the project.
  --- Fabric glue is an alternate adhesive, (for smaller projects do to the expense).
  --- Arts-and Crafts people might put fabric on lamps, furniture, inside boxes, etc.
  --- Can be used to hide imperfections on walls.
  --- Please use soft smoothing brush with long bristles or cloth pad.

• --- Flocks are distinguished by raised designs of velveteen-like synthetic fibers. Flocks can be made with paper, vinyl, or foil backing. Some flocks are hard to clean, others are washable.
  --- Can be used to hide imperfections on walls.
  --- Please use soft smoothing brush with long bristles or cloth pad.

• --- This shiny, highly reflective kind of paper is quite dramatic.
  --- Use in areas away from sunlight to avoid glare.
  --- Will tend to show surface flaws, so I recommend using wall liner first, or choosing a busy pattern of foil and non-reflective areas in the paper.
  --- Foils are a bit sensitive to excessive moisture when hanging, (expand with too much water- then seams separate while drying).

• Wallpaper murals usually are made in vinyl coated prints of one to a dozen panels depending on how big the mural is.
  A single panel would be for a door. Larger murals come in even numbered panels that are to be carrfully hung to maintain the integrity of the picture.
  Typical scenes are photographs of nature, (forests, tropical island, mountain lakes, etc.), cityscapes, sports, (baseball games, golf courses). Other murals are fantasy scenes like unicorns playing or you are in a space station looking at Saturn.
  Murals are playful, and can be used to great effect on interior walls. A good use is in a computer room to help relive eye strain.

• --- These highly textured natural and/or man made fibers are bonded to a backing to make wallcoverings.
  --- Can be used to hide imperfections on walls.
  --- Moisture affects these papers more than others, (expand with too much water- then seams separate while drying). Hang with as little water as possible, (if pre-pasted, use activator instead of water).
  --- Uneven dyeing is normal, so follow instructions on reverse hanging , (top-for bottom), if applicable.
  --- Warning! -- Because of the extra bulk in these wallcoverings, the size of a bolt the manufacturer actually ships will likely be smaller than normal. So pay attention to the sample book's instructions as to the square feet of wall a bolt will cover.
  --- Have extra razor blades and sharp shears on hand.
  --- Please use soft smoothing brush with long bristles or cloth pad.

• --- Any type of wallcovering that is made to be painted.
  --- Many embossed papers and borders are 'paintables'.
  --- To stay clean, "paintables" will need to be painted or clear coated. I recommend painting AFTER applied to the wall as paint film will likely flake or crack if flexed on loose paper while hanging the paper.
  --- See Anaglyptic, See also Embossed.

• --- Actually, Silk and Satins are vinyl wallcoverings with delicate textures that set them apart from other vinyl papers.
  --- Usually found together in sample books and sections in the library.
  --- A watermark effect called Moire is a fine example of this look of paper.

• Uncoated -- not easy to clean. Use in low moisture rooms.
• Vinyl Coated -- can be wiped clean, some may be scrubbed. Most common paper, usable nearly anywhere.
• Hand-Screened or custom printed -- expensive, inks may run, may need edge trimming. Highly distinctive. Can duplicate historical styles.

• Vinyl with paper backing -- will tend to be Peelable, that is, removed in two layers.
• Vinyl with cloth backing -- Strippable, that is, can usually be pulled off in one piece.
  --- Vinyl wallcoverings are tough, scrubbable, and color retentive through sun exposure and cleanings. The vinyl will not let moisture pass through, so it is an excellent choice for high moisture rooms like kitchens and baths.
  --- Care should be taken to use only the recommended adhesive for mildew resistance as the vinyl does not breathe.
  --- When putting vinyl on vinyl, (like corners), or borders of any type on to vinyl wallcoverings, please use only "vinyl-to-vinyl" adhesive.

• --- An inexpensive, thick, no patterned wallcovering that can be used over imperfect wall surfaces like brick, paneling, cracked walls, or a bad wallpaper removal job.
  --- It is used to form a smooth surface that can be painted or papered over.
  --- It will help absorb excess moisture from hanging Natural papers like grassgloth or Foil papers that are highly sensitive to moisture, (expand with too much water- then seams separate while drying).
  --- Wall liner will need to be covered or painted to prevent it from holding dirt.

A Few Other Wallpaper Terms.

Booking the wallpaper. Fold one end of the paper to the middle, paste side to paste side, then fold the other end to the middle. For longer strips, fold ACCORDION style, again paste side always touching paste side. DO NOT CREASE the folds, let them round over on their own.

Double-cut seams. Overlap two strips of paper, then use a strait edge to guide your razor to slice through both layers. Remove both small strips. Smooth seams as usual. Double cutting is useful for corners and needed of 54 inch wide papers.

Scoring your old wallpaper. To remove wallpaper that is a water barrier, (like vinyls), it will be necessary to poke holes or scratch the paper to let water, steam, or a chemical remover behind the paper to dissolve the paste.

Pre-Pasted wallcovering. Most wallcoverings sold today have an adhesive already applied to the back at the factory. To activate the adhesive, one would normally soak the paper in a water tray, (printed side rolled inward), then book the paper for the recommended amount of time. The use of Pre-Paste Activator is another way to hydrate the paste.

Pre-Paste Activator. About the consistency of warm jelly, activator is brushed or rolled onto the back of pre-pasted wallcoverings as one would paste unpasted papers. Then book the paper for the recommended time to let the paste 'activate'. The two main reasons for spending the money on activator are;

People who have used activator may find the results are more consistent for them. Reliable application has value.

Some papers expand more than others when soaked in water to activate the paste. This can lead to seam gaps when the paper dries on the wall. The use of activator can have less of a swelling effect on the paper while hydrating the paste. Of course, EXPERIENCE is the best teacher.

SIZING. I recommend sizing the wall before each time you hang wallcovering, (it is only good for one hanging). Sizing allows more 'slide time' while hanging paper, and definitely allows for easier removal of the paper later on. The sizing can be in the Primer-Sealer if the can says so, saving you time. Bought in dry form, sizing is mixed with water then applied to the wall and left to dry before hanging the paper.

PEELABLE or STRIPPABLE. 'Peelable' papers mean that you will pull off a top layer, then work a little harder to remove a second layer adhered to the wall.
'Strippable' papers are the ones that come off in one piece, assuming the adhesive is loose.

SCRUBBABLE or WASHABLE. 'Washable' means the paper can be gently sponged with warn soapy water. Just not every day.
'Scrubbable' means the wallcovering can be washed, even with a soft brush, as needed.

About Pattern Matches.

• DROP MATCH. The pattern runs DIAGONALLY across the wallpaper strips. You will see that every other strip is the same across a horizontal line, like the ceiling. The Pattern Repeat is the Drop.
• RANDOM MATCH. There is no match. Just hang the paper. Striped paper is commonly a random match.
• REVERSE HANG. This means that every other strip should be hanged bottom-for-top in order for the pattern to be correct. Think of the pattern as existing across two strips. Also used on many natural fiber look wallcoverings.
• STRAIGHT MATCH. The pattern runs straight across each strip of paper. The Pattern Repeat is how far down the strip you must go to see the exact pattern again.

HOW TO ESTIMATE WALLPAPER AMOUNTS.

by Alan J. Krist.

Calculating how much wallpaper you will need for a project is an activity that lies somewhere between Folk Art and an Inexact Science. This article contains technical information, examples, and practical considerations to help guide you through this important step of your project.

BORDERS

Measuring for borders is relatively easy as it is purchased in linear feet or rolls that are normally fifteen feet long. First you use a tape to measure the linear feet that the border will cover. If you are using the border in the middle of the wall where a chair rail might be in an older home, you do not need to include the linear feet of doors, windows, etc., where the border will not be used. Next you count the number of corners that the border will go into then out of the corners. Do not include corners the border will just dead end into it. The border can lose up to one length of the pattern repeat with each corner.

Now, multiply the length of the pattern repeat by the number of corners, then add the linear feet. This is the minimum length of border you need.

EXAMPLE

A child's bedroom with the North and South walls ten feet long, East and West walls eight feet long. The border is to covers the complete diameter of the room without deductions for doors or windows. The pattern of teddy bears in the border repeats every seven inches.

Seven inches' times four corners equals 28 inches, plus 36 feet equals 38 feet 4 inches. So, you need at least 38 feet 4 inches of border. If you are buying border off a big roll in the store, stop here.

Most borders are sold in individual spools of fifteen foot lengths. In the Example, three spools would be needed. Two spools would only be 30 feet long, three spools would be 45 feet long. The extra can be used for gift wrap, book covers, crafts, etc. If the border you chose is more than ten inches high, please double check the length of the spool, because it may be less than five yards long.

SIDEWALL PAPER -- (Wallpaper)

Measuring for sidewall paper is accomplished by determining the total square feet that the paper will cover. You may choose to physically measure the height and width of each area the paper will cover, in feet or inches. However, it is easier to measure the height and width of the walls, then deduct for major areas not to be covered, (height and width of doors, windows, built in cabinets, etc., and areas with other finishes like paint or another paper). If you have a total in square inches, divide that number by 144 to obtain square feet. Then, knowing the pattern repeat of your paper, divide the square feet by the corresponding number on the chart for the size paper used.

The overwhelming majority of sidewall paper purchased today is supplied in bolts that are equal to two single rolls of wallpaper, (sometimes three rolls). The bolt is one long uncut paper, but it is called two single rolls. The two most used paper sizes are 20.5 inches wide and 27 inches wide. The charts for these two paper's are below.

     ================== 20.5" double roll ===================

Size Standard 20.5 inches by 33 feet for a total of 56.37 square feet.
     Metric   52 cm x 10 meters for a total of 5.2 m squared.

Pattern Repeat:               Number to divide by.

0 - 4"                       25
5 - 9"                       24
10 - 14"                     23
15 - 21"                     22

     ================== 27" double roll ===================

Size Standard 27 inches by 27 feet for a total of 60 square feet.
     Metric   68.58 cm x 8.22 meters for a total of 5.57 m2

Pattern Repeat:               Number to divide by.

0 - 4"                       27
5 - 9"                       26
10 - 14"                     25
15 - 21"                     24

HOW TO HANG WALLPAPER.

Fortunetly for all of us, there are good sites on the internet that cover this subject of hanging wallpaper. So, PLEASE BOOKMARK THIS SITE, then go surfing on the following links.

Major Subjects.

Paint	Faux Paint	Window Treatments	Main Page.
Carpet	Flooring	NOW What?

The Alan J. Krist Web Site, ynow.net, is copyrighted material. This web site, (and any sub-page of this web site), may not be re-broadcast, published, copied, or disseminated in any way, in hole or in part, without my express written permission. I will allow two exceptions based on the honor system.

The Two Exceptions:
1. You may print the Graph Paper ad nausea.
2. Only as a memory aid, you may print a sub-page for yourself or one sub-page each for personnel training provided,
   1. Each person that holds a print-out understands that this is copyrighted material, not to be disseminated.
   2. That I expect donations to a local charity of your choice per sub-page or leftover project material donated to a theatre group or charity, (or no more than ten percent of expenses saved on a project), for each sub-page as follows:
      Individual person -- $2
      Employee training -- $5 per sub-page for each employee.

I hope people will comply with the honor system for each sub-page they find useful no mater how the page was read.

This Web Page Copyright © 1997 - 2008 by Alan J. Krist.